A gandoura is a type of Moroccan thobe. Thobe is the umbrella word for a long, loose robe worn by men across the Arab world. Gandoura is one specific Moroccan version of it, cut with three-quarter sleeves and a V neck for warm weather. So the question is not really thobe or gandoura. It is which Moroccan thobe you want.
There are three that matter, and the differences come down to sleeves, collar and fabric weight.
What is a Moroccan thobe?
Thobe, also written thawb, is the general Arabic word for the ankle length robe worn by men. Every region has its own cut. Gulf thobes are typically white, closely tailored and formal. Moroccan thobes are different: looser through the body, usually colored rather than white, and finished with embroidery down the chest.
When someone says Moroccan thobe, they almost always mean one of three garments:
- The gandoura, also written qandoura. Three-quarter sleeves, V neck, lightweight.
- The kaftan, also written caftan. Long sleeves, mandarin collar, more tailored.
- The djelleba, also written djellaba or jellaba. Hooded, heavy, an outer layer.
They are not interchangeable, and the price difference between them reflects how much fabric and finishing goes into each.
What about a jalabiya?
Jalabiya, also written jalabiyya, galabeya, galabiyya and jellabiya, is the Egyptian and Gulf name for the long men’s robe. It is the same idea as a Moroccan gandoura: loose, ankle length, worn for comfort in heat.
The difference is regional rather than fundamental. An Egyptian galabeya is usually cut straighter and wider, with a plain round neckline or a simple slit, and often no embroidery at all. A Moroccan gandoura has the V neck placket and embroidery down the chest. Neither has a hood, which is what separates both from a djelleba.
If you searched for a men’s jalabiya and landed here, our gandouras are the Moroccan version of the garment you are looking for.
What is a gandoura?
The gandoura is the everyday Moroccan thobe. Three-quarter sleeves that end below the elbow, a V neck with an embroidered placket and small buttons, and a roomy cut through the body.
The fabric is lightweight and breathable, which is the entire point of the garment. It is what men wear through a Moroccan summer, and it is thin enough to layer under something heavier when the weather turns.
One common misconception: a gandoura is not sleeveless. Some North African robes are, but the Moroccan gandoura has a genuine three-quarter sleeve, ending below the elbow.
Ours have two pockets set into the side seams, run S to 2XL, and cost $65.99.
What is a kaftan?
The kaftan is the dressier Moroccan thobe. Long sleeves, a mandarin collar that stands upright without folding, and embroidery running from the collar down the center of the chest. A concealed zip at the neck keeps that line unbroken.
The cut sits closer through the shoulders and chest than a gandoura, which is what makes it read as tailored rather than draped. Ours also have two working pockets, which is rarer in a kaftan than it should be.
Sizes M to 3XL, $85.99.
What is a djelleba?
The djelleba is the one people most often confuse with the other two, and it is the most distinct of the three. It has a traditional hood, called a qob, big enough to actually pull up over your head.
It is cut long and full from heavy cloth, and it is not really an alternative to a kaftan or a gandoura. It goes over them. That is also why a traditional winter djelleba has no pockets, only two open side slits, so you can reach through to your trouser pockets.
Sizes S to 2XL including an M/L, $119.99.
Side by side
| Gandoura | Kaftan | Djelleba | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sleeves | Three-quarter | Long | Long |
| Neck | V neck, buttons | Mandarin collar, zip | Hood, button loops |
| Fabric | Lightweight | Medium, drapes | Heavyweight |
| Cut | Roomy | Tailored | Long and full |
| Pockets | Two | Two | None, side slits |
| Season | Summer | All year | Winter |
| Occasion | Everyday | Formal | Outer layer |
| Price | $65.99 | $85.99 | $119.99 |
When to wear each
Hot weather, everyday, travel. A gandoura. The three-quarter sleeve and the light fabric are the difference between comfortable and unbearable in real heat. Our teal Moroccan gandoura and brown Moroccan gandoura are the two most worn through summer. The full range is in the gandoura collection.
Eid prayer, weddings, Jumu'ah, evening gatherings. A kaftan. The embroidery and the closer cut give it occasion without being loud. A burgundy Moroccan kaftan photographs well in a bright prayer hall, and a black Moroccan kaftan is plain enough to wear again on an ordinary Friday. See the kaftan collection.
Cold mornings, winter Jumu'ah, anywhere you would otherwise wear a coat. A djelleba, worn over one of the other two. Our black winter djelleba is the one that goes with everything. See the winter djelleba collection.
How to choose if you are buying your first
Buy the gandoura. It is the least expensive, the most forgiving to fit because of the roomy cut, and the one you will reach for most often. A kaftan earns its place once you know you want something for occasions. A djelleba only makes sense if your winters are genuinely cold, and it assumes you already own something to wear underneath.
Whichever you start with, measure before you order. The three are cut differently, so your size in a gandoura is not automatically your size in a kaftan. Everything is on the size guide.
Browse the full range of Moroccan thobes for men.